This summer was unusually hot and I was trying different bouldering areas but everywhere I went the conditions for climbing were far from perfect. I trained indoor a lot, but I needed to go out, I was missing rock. Gašper came up with the idea of going to Silvretta and since then the name Silvretta came up at least five times in every conversation I had with Urša, Gašper or Katja. We wanted to go there, badly. But every time we checked the weather we were disappointed. It was raining all the time. We were delaying our departure from day to day from one week to another and in the end it looked as if we were not going to get there. We were utterly disappointed. But after every rain comes sun, even in Tirol, also gehen Wir nach Tirol!!!:)
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| Thomahawk |
We borrowed a Kangoo from our dear friend Andrej Čotar and we were on our way, crossing Italy, through Innsbruck and Galtur. During the trip my mind was full of questions, wondering whether all the hard work and training I had done in preparation would yield any results. When we arrived to Galtur it was raining and we were a bit uncomfortable - you do not want to have bad weather 2000m high in the mountains. After that we reached a really nice looking camp by the lake, just a few minutes drive from the bouldering area. When Helga the boss saw us she told us the camp was full, but then something changed her mind and she eventually showed us where we could place our tents.
I just couldn't wait for the next day to run up the mountain. Nothing else mattered anymore, for a moment I even forgot about my acking knee. Let’s sleep so the next day comes quicker!
Day 2
Next day- perfect, no rain at all.
That Helga had in mind an up to cm2 precise plan of where we can be became apparent the next day when Katja and Gašper had to move their mini tent. No joking around: Ordnung und Disciplin, this is Tirol! But the morning didn't start as fine for me, my knee was still acking. I was lucky my darling was armed with painkillers. So first thing - a pill and after breakfast I could already feel it working,.. great! Time for action!
After a few minutes drive to Silvapark, we parked the vehicle, picked the pads and begun some 15 minutes walk to the sectors.
After a short warm up I decided to try Nivuk 8a which I managed to tackle in 4 tries. Thinking about the grade I would say it was rather a 7c.
After a rest I decided to try Nevio 8a and I flashed it. My oppinion? It's rather a 7b+. While I'm resting, Urša told me she was going to try a highball Too young to dye 6b and I got a bit tense. She was fighting a little bit but she managed to get to the top, and I could finally ease up. When she got down, she said she wanted do it again for the photo,.. Oh no, here we go again:)
We then headed towards another sector, in search for a nice boulder called The British Airways 8a. We found it and two Austrians standing nearby gave me the beta. I flashed it... Grade? I would say it is a 7c.
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| British Airways |
My impressions from the first day of Silvretta? Quite nice! :)...
We headed towards our camp. My knee hurt quite a bit, but it was working.
After dinner and a few beers we became a bit noisy, too noisy for Helga and she made that clear immediately:) Yes-yes, we promise to behave;) it was only than that we realised we were standing out from the rest of the crowd a bit, but it was ok, everybody was really nice to us.
Day3
While having breakfast we were discussing where to go and Gasper suggested Tumpen, a bouldering spot not so far from Silvretta and close to Imst where the worldcup in sportsclimbing was going to take place that evening and we wanted to see it. It sounded perfect. After an hour’s drive we reached Tumpen, a mini magic wood, but the difference in temperature between Silvapark and Tumpen was obvious, it was too hot for my taste and my skin. Nonetheless I decided to have an active rest day:) After a short warmup I climbed three 7c boulders. I like the rock there, I think it's good, maybe a bit sharper than in Magic wood but the rest is very similar: trees, river and moss. We had a great time there and in the evening we headed for Imst to see the Worldcup. On our way there we were so hungry we decided to stop at Bosna Burger-I should warn anyone not to do the same mistake. Worst hamburger I ever ate, the bread was hard as a rock and the meat as if plastick. We arrived in Imst on time to see the finals, but watching the finals I got bored quite fast and I was already waiting to leave.
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| Crocodile |
Day4
I was climbing for two days on and I wasn't sure if I should make it three or I should rest, but when everybody said they're going up the mountain, I made up my mind quickly-I'm going too!, even though I felt a bit tired. Me and Urša went first to warm up in the first sector and then decided to go to one of the highest sectors and get a better view of the park.When we arrived to Golden gate sector I immediately tryed Golden gate 8b but my enthusiasm quickly waned since I managed to stretch and hurt my knee already on the third attempt. After that even walking became difficult. I decided to climb some less demanding boulders in which the knee wouldn't suffer so much. When the day was over and I climbed a whole lot of 7b boulders, we began our walk back to the valley. I had to walk really slowly and it seemed the road was neverending. When I got to the car I knew then- I had to rest!
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| Baby Lama |
Day5
Rest day: swimming in the lake by the camp, time for growing new skin.
Day6
Our last day of climbing. We decide to start at the highest sector. My knee is functioning ok and after 20 minutes walk we reach the top of Palm beach sector where we begin our warmup.
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| Thomahawk |
After warmup I managed to execute 2xRay, an 8a boulder which deserves its grade, and after that one of the best classics of Silvretta, Shining 8a. We moved then to the next sector, Golden Gate because everybody wanted to try Baby Lama 7c but more like 7b in my oppinion but really nice boulder, good holds, jugs, overhang, long moves and nice surrounding. I didn't climb much more that day, I was exhausted and just waiting to get back to the camp and eat something.
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| Shining |
Day7
Nothing much to say. We packed the bags and headed back home, but with a smile on our faces and plenty of good memories. We will be returning in Silvretta, for sure!
