Trip to Brione.

A few days ago we came back from Brione. I was surprised by the quality of the rock- really smooth granite, much smoother than for example Chironico or even Cresciano- and by the amount of blocks that seems nobody has tried to clean or climb.

The team spirit was great and we were climbing four days on without a rest.

Iztok climbing Frogger

Jernej Kruder, General Disarray 8b

Not so many climbers visit Brione. We met some 10 climbers in all 5 days. There's no guide book, you just go and find boulders you heard about or saw on the video clips. That's also one of the reasons why it's so beautifull. But you have to have a standard and a good eye for lines. Next time I go to Brione I would like to clean some new boulders and put up new problems.

But the place is not deserted - we met one local, hahaha:D and a helicopter that blew our pads into the river.

Cellar door

Cellar door

Bizi flying high

Magic Wood

We went to Magic Wood two weeks ago. I was very excited to go, because I had a project there that felt I was very close to doing it. This time around I was really psyched; I knew and felt all the moves, everything.. The first day I warmed up but then I headed straight to my project, I couldn't wait any longer, I had to face it.. however two days before I made a deep cut in my index finger. When I came there the sun was still high - it was too hot. All in all something didn’t feel right. After a few tries the cut in my finger just opened up with no mercy.. It was obvious, the move and the hold demanded good skin... nothing to do, so I decided to leave the project for a while.

Muttertag on a warm sunny day

I decided to open up a new project, something that didn't have a supercrimp for the right hand... I wanted to try Deep throat for some time. It seemed an interesting boulder coming out of a cave, with long moves.

Deep throat

On the first day I already  did all the moves except for one long move before coming out of the cave.. I knew that when I will be able to hold onto the crimp it I would climb the boulder. I thought, 8b+ is my limit and what I'm trying now is my limit. I imagined that the move had to be hard, an '8b boulder move', nothing less....

Voigas

But everytime I go to MagicWood I can't help myself with all the nice rock and great boulders around me not to climb everything that attracts me. I cannot just pass by, but that's my nature I take everything I can... or at least I wish to. My wild wish is to climb every rock on the planet but the lifespan is my enemy in this war with time:)
Unfortunately the weather was working against me, we had too many sunny days. I would need storms to keep me off the rock and I didn't rest enough. Despite the sun, the humidity in the air was high.

Deep throat

I was working on my Deep throat project and getting better every time. I felt this was it, this was the beta. But only on the third day I figured out I could change the foothold and the move became manageable. After that I did the move every time. But because I didn't take any rest for three days I wasn't able to close the project the last day.
I just never learn!

Still I learned a lot on this trip:)