Magic Wood

We went to Magic Wood two weeks ago. I was very excited to go, because I had a project there that felt I was very close to doing it. This time around I was really psyched; I knew and felt all the moves, everything.. The first day I warmed up but then I headed straight to my project, I couldn't wait any longer, I had to face it.. however two days before I made a deep cut in my index finger. When I came there the sun was still high - it was too hot. All in all something didn’t feel right. After a few tries the cut in my finger just opened up with no mercy.. It was obvious, the move and the hold demanded good skin... nothing to do, so I decided to leave the project for a while.

Muttertag on a warm sunny day

I decided to open up a new project, something that didn't have a supercrimp for the right hand... I wanted to try Deep throat for some time. It seemed an interesting boulder coming out of a cave, with long moves.

Deep throat

On the first day I already  did all the moves except for one long move before coming out of the cave.. I knew that when I will be able to hold onto the crimp it I would climb the boulder. I thought, 8b+ is my limit and what I'm trying now is my limit. I imagined that the move had to be hard, an '8b boulder move', nothing less....

Voigas

But everytime I go to MagicWood I can't help myself with all the nice rock and great boulders around me not to climb everything that attracts me. I cannot just pass by, but that's my nature I take everything I can... or at least I wish to. My wild wish is to climb every rock on the planet but the lifespan is my enemy in this war with time:)
Unfortunately the weather was working against me, we had too many sunny days. I would need storms to keep me off the rock and I didn't rest enough. Despite the sun, the humidity in the air was high.

Deep throat

I was working on my Deep throat project and getting better every time. I felt this was it, this was the beta. But only on the third day I figured out I could change the foothold and the move became manageable. After that I did the move every time. But because I didn't take any rest for three days I wasn't able to close the project the last day.
I just never learn!

Still I learned a lot on this trip:)